Bringing home baby

First impressions are important to animals. If it doesn't go well, it can set the tone for the whole relationship. He/she only weights two pounds and the new family looks giant and scary. The kitten is losing his daily routine, mother, brothers, sisters, caretakers and environment. Don't overwhelm the kitten with a lot of extra people or other animals until he gets used to his new home and new family members. Whether your kids are little or more mature, they need supervision when they interact with your new kitten. The younger the child and kitten, the more supervision is needed.

When you bring home your kitten, it might be tempting to set the little one loose in the house to go exploring, but this is counterproductive to the transition and dangerous for the kitten. First you should set up your kitten in his own safe sanctuary. A bedroom or bathroom with food, water, litter box, and toys. This gives him a small space to adjust to instead of an entire house and keeps him/her safe from other animals and household hazards. For several days to a week, don't let the kitten out of his room. Spend time with him/her in his room playing and cuddling and bonding with him/her. Sitting on the floor is great because he/she will come to you on their own terms, and you don't look so big and scary. Gradually expose the kitten to other rooms. I use part of the house and block off the rest until he/she gets used to the house. 

If you have other animals never just throw the residential dog/cat in with the new kitten. After the kitten is used to the sanctuary room, place the kitten in the cat crate (place a towel over part of the crate) and put it in a neutral zone, maybe the living room where both animals can spend time together to get used to each others scents. This will make both animals feel safe. The residential cat/dog may feel threatened and insecure so be sure to pay a lot of attention to him/her.

There are three common vaccinations 

• RABIES Given at least 16 weeks of age. it is required by state law for all cats. 
• FVRCP (feline viiral rhinotrachetis, calicivirus and panleukopenia). Is recommended for all cats, as this vaccine offers protection against three common viral respiratory pathogens. 
• Feline leukemia is recommended for kittens and cats who go outside or exposed to cats that are high risk. 
•  ***I do not recommend Siberians to be outdoor cats.

Kittens vaccinations recommendations by your veterinarian usually goes as follows

• 8 weeks old - FVRCP#1 (included in the cost of the kitten)
• 12 weeks old - FVRCP#2
• 16 weeks old - FVRCP#3 and Rabies.

Once the initial vaccines are complete, your kitten should be protected 1-3 years depending on which brand and type of vaccine is used. Please discuss this with your own veterinarian to see what he recommends.

******PLEASE START WITH THE FOOD I HAVE BEEN GIVING THEM*****

A grain free, high protein low carbohydrate diet is best for them.  It is beneficial for skin, heart, joints, and healthy for their gums and teeth. I leave this food out all day. They will not over eat since it is full of protein. Wet food is ok on occasion as a treat but it usually has a lot of fat and calories that will cause them to gain weight, have tarter and/or cavities requiring them to have dental cleanings.

When you first get your kitten you should use the food I have been giving them. If you decide to switch brands it is highly recommended to slowly introduce the new food so they won't have any digestive issues. It would be a shame to spend money on a veterinarian visit for a belly ache.

 My veterinarian does not recommend spaying or neutering before 5 months of age because their immune systems are young and can be compromised. The onset of puberty is around 6 months of age. Please discuss this with your own veterinarian.   

  I use either step away or fresh step. If you decide to use other types such as pellets, or all natural brands then a slow introduction should be used as not to confuse the kitten. He/She may have accidents.